Thursday 29 March 2012

Democracy, theater...and CHEESECAKE! Yes, the Greeks invented that too.

And there was me thinking that the original cheesecake was Lincolnshire curd tart!

Read about Greek cheesecake in The Pappas Post

I have't found a recipe for Lincolnshire curd tart, but here is a receipe for a Yorkshire curd tart.
http://www.bbcgoodfood.com/recipes/749642/yorkshire-curd-tart

Greeks Giving Up on Cities, Heading Back to Villages

http://greece.greekreporter.com/2012/03/28/greeks-giving-up-on-cities-heading-back-to-villages/

Stoa of Attalos’ First Floor at the Ancient Agora of Athens to Re-Open to the Public

Aristotle’s Works Will Finally Be Translated into Modern Greek

Cats of Katapola - February / March 2012

Cats of Katapola February / March 2012






I've been sorting through the photos I took on my last trip to Greece.  I'll be adding more photos to the album as I go along.




Enjoy!

Monday 26 March 2012

GoodNews.gr - Reporting the New Greece. Greece and Greeks, meeting the challenge. Τhe people. Their stories. The opportunities


"Kalimera. Here we are, the English edition of GoodNews.gr, extending the great work already delivered by our Greek counterparts. We just felt like saying a few words about why we are going international... "

Read more at
http://en.goodnews.gr/Articles/OpEd--A-word-of-welcome-from-the-editors_1477.html


Arsenic Cheese.............???!


I was looking around a shop in Greece, an old-fashioned shop selling herbs, oils, and wines as well as local cheeses. A notice on the outside wall caught my eye: "Arseniko cheese". Arsenic? Poisonous cheese? I asked about the cheese and was told "male cheese". Male cheese? Another conundrum!

The word arsenic is from the Greek arsenikon, meaning yellow orpiment, the mineral arsenic trisulphide. Orpiment is from the Latin auripigmentum (aurum, gold and pigmentum, pigment). Pigment is from the same root as paint.

But there is another Greek word arsenikos, meaning masculine or strong. The cheese I had seen advertised was strongly flavoured mature cheese, not poisonous at all!


Greek Parade Protester: “It’s as if we are living under who knows what kind of regime…”

Homer's Tomb

I've been to Ios, but I've never been to Homer's Tomb.  The ruins of what is supposedly the poet's tomb are at Plakoto.

I remember a tourist telling me that when she asked the way to Homer's Tomb the person she asked thought that Homer's Tomb was a night-club!

Strip Tease at a monastery

  A few years ago each time I saw a group of very respectable looking French ladies we would say "strip tease" to each other and start giggling.

It was like this...............

We had met in the lobby of a monastery, where we had been pulling on extra layers of clothes over our shorts and T shirts before visiting the monastery.  And on leaving we had pulled off the said extra layers of clothes.  One of us said "strip tease".................

Changing the clocks - 4.15 a.m. will be quite early enough

I usually go to Greece in spring and autumn, and I've often flown back to England on the Sunday after summertime or summertime has started. 
In Greece the clocks are changed at 4 a.m.

One year I wanted to get to Athens airport for an early morning flight.  The night before I asked the hotel reception to book a taxi for 4 in the morning.  A slightly pained expression spread over the hotel receptionist's face.  "4.15 a.m. will be quite early enough, he said."   I saw his point - 4 a.m. was not a good time to ask for a taxi on that particular night!

I've also spent a few nights at Athens airport on the night the clocks change.  Time moves slowly when you spend a night at an airport.  Ylou are asiiting, half reading, half snoozing.  Three oc'clock, three fifteen, three thirty, three forty five, three fifty, three fifty five.  Four o'clock.  And back to three o'clock ...........................

Mizithra cheese


Often when you buy an alcoholic drink in Greece you are given a small snack. On my last visit to Greece I was given a plate with bread, tomato, olive, and what at first glance I took to be feta.  But the cheese wasn't feta, it was mizithra.

Mizithra has a similar texture to feta, but is not salty and is smoother.  Imagine thick creme fraiche.

When in slabs mizithra looks like feta.  I've also seen mounds of unshaped mizithra.

On my next trip to Greece I will try mizithra with honey as a change from my usual Greek breakfast of yogurt with honey.

This is what Wikipedia says about mizithra.  There is a salted version of mizithra (Xynomizithra, or sour mizithra) which wouldn't taste too good with honey!



Sunday 25 March 2012

Bunny in the oven

I wouldn't knowingly eat rabbit, but this recipe by Nigel Slater sounds good and "Greekish".
http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2012/mar/25/nigel-slater-rabbit-ginger-chocolate

On my last trip to Greece, in winter when the menu was somewhat depleted - the dish of the day was rabbit.  I at briam, a Greek veg. stew.

A French girl once told me about a trip to Delos, when a storm stopped her party leaving the island.  For some days they survived on rabbit caughgt in the island.

Greek Independence Day - 25 March

25 March is Greek Inependence Day.  I have seen the parade in Athens on previous Independence Days. I was reminded of a parade I once saw in Brussels - when I wondered why the army was on manoeuvre.  Then I realised that the parade was to mark tghe King's birthday.

Read about some Greek Inependence Day traditions.
http://greece.greekreporter.com/2012/03/24/various-greek-customs-for-march-25th-national-anniversary/

Wednesday 21 March 2012

You read about them first on my blog! The missing oranges of Syntagma

I recently wrote about the ofranges of Athens.  The orange trees that I had noticed in particular were between the National Gardens and the Cycladic Art Museum.

This is what I wrote

http://greecekalotaxidi.blogspot.co.uk/2012/03/so-many-oranges-on-streets-of-athens.html

Now read on
http://www.athensnews.gr/portal/1/54312

THE CASE OF THE VANISHING ORANGES

I must admit that it had never occurred to me that oranges could be used as weapons!

Greece on the breadline: the children of Athens too hungry to do PE

Greece on the breadline: the children of Athens too hungry to do PE

Greece on the breadline: how leftovers became a meal

http://www.guardian.co.uk/world/blog/2012/mar/14/greece-breadline-leftovers-dinner

" it is estimated some 400,000 Greeks now visit a soup kitchen daily"

Greece on the Breadline: the end of the journey

Greeks Leave their Dead in Morgues Because of Burial Expenses

http://greece.greekreporter.com/2012/03/20/greeks-leave-their-dead-in-morgues-because-of-burial-expenses/

Very sad, but not as widespread as the headline suggests - three bodies unburied since January.

Trireme “Olympias” to be Displayed at 2012 London Olympic Games

The Herodion Theatre Had the Largest Roof for 17 Centuries

Monday 19 March 2012

Strike to halt all sailings on Monday and Tuesday

http://www.athensnews.gr/portal/1/54179

Here we go (or don't....................) again.

The prospect of a holiday disrupted by strikes won't help the Greek tourist industry.

Memories of a lost world

http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/2005/mar/20/observerescapesection?INTCMP=SRCH

The author Panos Karnezis remembers a quiter Greece.

I like visiting places in Greece where the veneer of modern tourism is thin enough for the "real" Greece to show through.  And often this is easier in low season.

Naked ambitions on a Greek island

http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/2011/sep/11/greece-naturism-beach-holidays

Brrrrrrrr - if the weather was like some days on my last trip to Greece, everyone would have been wearing thermals.

Greece on the breadline: cashless currency takes off

Greece on the breadline: 'potato movement' links shoppers and farmers

Nigel McGilchrist - Greek Islands

A series of books on the architecture and archaelology of the Greek islands.  I took the violumes containing Naxos and Amorgos on my last holiday to Greece.  I've been visiting Naxos and Amorgos for over 25 years and still managed to find things in the books that I did not know.  So the books must be even more useful for travellers who know the islands less well.

On one walk it was difficult to work out which church was being described.  The book mentioned two churches on the route - I found three.

It wasn't a good idea to say that the church key was above the door - no more.

In one of the books I'm sure that I read that a local cheese was capable of autolocomotion - I looked again and could not find the comment.  The "autolocomotive" cheese was a soft cheese.  I usually find soft cheeses are relatively mild.  It is the hard cheeses that are pungent .............................

If You Invested in Greece, Sucker – You Lost

Greek Farmers Want to Make Εurope-Wide Cheap Food Network

IMF’s Man in Athens: We Want More Cuts

Greece’s Favourite TV Chef & Author Vefa Alexiadou Reveals Cooking Secrets

Thursday 15 March 2012

Papademos May Be Here to Stay

So many oranges on the streets of Athens

I was surprised to see so many oranges on the trees lining the streets of Athens.  There was the odd piece of orange peel on the ground, but there were so many oranges on the trees.  I wondered if it was illegal to pick an orange of the trees......................

Thirty percent of Athens shops shut

http://www.athensnews.gr/portal/15/53914

I was in Athens last weekend, and in the Syntagma/ Plaka areas there did not seem to be that many shops shut.

One thing that did puzzle me was a cafe with boxes of fruit, and rosemary plants, on the street outside.  At first I thought that the fruit was for hungry people to help themselves to./  But the rosemary plants?  I decided that the fruit was for decoration, not for consumption - at least, not for immediate consumption!

Greek crisis: for the Chelsea set of Athens, it's still a life of luxury brands

Greece on the breadline: amid the fury, solidarity

Why does Greece import so much food?

http://www.ekathimerini.com/4dcgi/_w_articles_wsite6_1_14/03/2012_432976

When I'm in Greece I not only scan the descriptions in the shops for food of Greek origin, I also try to find produce grown on the island that I am on.

Cypriot Antiquity Treasures Exhibited in the Cycladic Art Museum

This exhibition was still being prepared when I was in the Museum on Saturday .................................

http://greece.greekreporter.com/2012/03/15/cypriot-antiquity-treasures-exhibited-in-the-cycladic-art-museum/

“Monuments have no voice. They must have yours.”

Tuesday 13 March 2012

March 25th National Parades to Take Place As Always; All Government Members Asked to Attend

Crisis Hits Tourism, Around 1,000 Hotels Put on Sale

Right to die: 'there's no dignity left in his life – it's just existing'

http://www.guardian.co.uk/society/2012/mar/12/right-to-die-no-dignity?INTCMP=SRCH


I can quite understand why Tony's saying that it would be better if the doctors hadn't saved his life in Greece, and in many ways I agree with him.
So it was doctors in Greece who saved this man's life.

My impressions of Greece as a tourist in February - March 2012

I don't want to belittle the problems that millions of Greece are facing.  But Greece needs the money that tourists bring in to the country.  I was in greece for over two weeks, and saw nothing that would put me off going back to Greece again.

Some impressions - I'll add more as they occur to me.

  • at no time till I feel under threat of any kind. 
  • I went to a concert at the Megaron (Athens Concert Hall) that started at 8.30 p.m. and finished at about 11.30 p.m.  I walked from a hotel about 5 minutes walk from Syntagma to Syntagma metro station, caught the metro to the Megaron metro station, and returned by metro.  No sign of any protestors anywhere.  At about midnight I was on Kidiathinion - all perfectly quiet.
  • A lot of shops were boarded up, most with shutters.  A few were boarded up with metal sheets - these were I think premises that were damaged in the recent riots.
  • At the large hotels on Syntagma Square I noticed marble steps with slabs of marble missing.  This looked odd on such large and impressive looking hotels.  then I recalled reading that protestors had ripped up stones to hurl at police.
  • The concert at the Megaron was sold out - ticket prices were from 15 euros to 55 euros.

European ministers locked in talks over Greece's worsening finances

Greece on the breadline: amid the fury, solidarity

Friday 9 March 2012

Greece confirms debt swap deal success

Greek islands for sale - Little Amorgos Island

http://greece.greekreporter.com/2012/03/07/canadian-website-offers-small-greek-islands-including-patroklos-island-for-sale/

It was the mention of "Little Amorgos Island" that drew me to this article. 

This is the website referred to in the article

http://www.privateislandsonline.com/

The Greek islands for sale are listed here

http://www.privateislandsonline.com/greece.htm


Little Amorgos Island

http://www.privateislandsonline.com/amorgos-island-greece.htm

Please note: This is not the large Amorgos Island
This large property in the heart of the Aegean Sea could easily be transformed into Greece's newest resort hotspot. At nearly 500 acres, this island in the Amorgos chain could not only encompass a luxury hotel complex and golf course, but a reasonably-sized city!
Phew - large Amorgos is not for sale!

But, errrr - what about water, transport.  And golf - on an Amorgos island!

Take an armchair tour of Greece's stunning islands and temples

Hot Greek filos

http://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/food-and-drink/recipes/hot-greek-filos-7546098.html

" I worried that the olives might overwhelm, but they didn't."  The meal on the fligth out was very simple, but successful - pasta, tomato sauce, and pieces of olive.  So successful that I'll try to make it myself! 

Olympics-Greek family to sell cup won by 1896 marathon hero

Hellenic Republic Ministry of Finance - Public Debt Management Agency

Read the news from the horse's mouth - if you are eligible to get through the security questions!
https://www.bondcompro.com/greeceexchange/genUserRole.asp

Greece to secure debt swap deal, says official

Thursday 8 March 2012

The Greek tax system is mad!

We read about the poor Greeks being squeezed for tax until the pips squeak.  So you would expect that "luxuries" would be taxed as savagely as essential every day needs, wouldn't you/

When I booked my flight from England to Greece, I noticed that the tax was lower than I remembered paying on my previous trip to Greece.

Yesterday I booked an internal Greek flight - no tax payable at all.  On previous flights there has been a tax payable

Yesterday I booked a hotel in Athens.  The VAT is 6.5% - the standard VAT rate in England is 20%.

There is soemthing wrong here!  Greece needs a Robin Hood ..............


Happens in Greece - the economic crisis from another point of view

German tax collectors volunteer for Greek duty

Greece's tax-dodging crackdown is a soap opera for the people

What - no ferries from Naxos to Piraeus on a Saturday??!

Don't worry about the heading - this is about travel in March.  I hope "normal service" will have resumed by next month when more tourists start visiting Greece. 

But at present there are no ferries from Naxos to Piraeus on a Saturday.  See http://www.gtp.gr/

There are ferries leaving on Monday to Friday at 09.30.; and ferries leaving at 19.15 on every day except Saturday.  The evening ferries have a slight problem - they arrive at Piraeus at 01.00.  The last metro used to be at midnight, perhaps earlier with the cutbacks...................  Why does the ferry arrive so late - the ferries are timetabled to travel more slowly.

If you want to go from Naxos to the mainland by "scenic" route, there is another possibility on Wednesdays.  leave Naxos at 15.05 on the Aqua Spirit, and travel via Paros, Syros, Kythnos and Kea, and reach Lavrio (on the mainland, but about a two hour bus ride to Athens, if there is a bus at that time of night!) at 23.30. 

So - get on that ferry - but first find your ferry!

Wednesday 7 March 2012

Aegean Cuisine

http://www.aegeancuisine.gr/portal/

I have seen the "Aegean Cuisine" logo in some tavernas.  If your Greek is as limited as mine, use Google translate!

What impact are austerity cuts having in Greece?

Food in exchange for theatre tickets in Greece

Yperia 2012 – 10th International Meeting on Culture and Tourism - on Amorgos

http://greece.greekreporter.com/2012/03/06/yperia-2012-10th-international-meeting-on-culture-and-tourism/

The spirit of the conference is around tourism and travel styles that care about the culture and the environment of local communities – responsible travel.
This year's theme is the “Cultural Ηeritage of Amorgos”.

Small Einsteins Awarded by the Greek Mathematical Society

Tuesday 6 March 2012

A walk to Minoa, Katapola, Amorgos - 5 March 2012

Some photos from a walk to Minoa, an archaeological site on a hill above Katapola, Amorgos.

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.3411043117135.164089.1301721739&type=3&l=ff6f71f103

What now for Greece – collapse or resurrection?

Redundancy tips Greek factory worker over the edge

Pondering on the terraces on Greek hillsides

Terraces near Katapola, Amorgos
I've been looking at terraces in the Greek landscape, and wondering when they were built, and the lives of the people who built them.  Today the terraces are in the main not used for cultivation.  Any cultivation there is is ion the valleys, where cultivation is easier on the flatter land and there is no need for terracing. 

Today there are daily, or almost daily, ferries that bring in all manner of produce.  There is no need for the islanders (or mainlanders) to be as self-sufficient as they were in the past.  I am trying to imagine island life when all necessities were locally produced.  And the only way to reach distant terraces was on foot or by donkey.

Greece in March - so green, if it wasn't for the olive trees this could be in England!


I took this photo in late afternoon, when the position of the sun really emphasised the greenness of the landscape.  The place? - near Katapola on the Greek island of Amorgos, in the Cyclades.

Greek wooden donkey saddles - works of art!


A traditional Greek saddle, made of wood and beautifully carved.  Are wooden saddles like this still made?  They are still in use, but the wood must rot or break, so none of the saddles can be that old.  The saddles are real works of art!


The donkey is just outside Katapola, on the island of Amorgos in the Cyclades.  In the background you can see Xilokeratidi.


Monday 5 March 2012

Crisis, what crisis?

http://www.yorkshirepost.co.uk/lifestyle/outdoors/travel/crisis-what-crisis-1-4313594


I'm surprised by comments in the British press that very few holidaymakers fly into Athens or Thessaloniki.  I've been coming to Greece fior over 30 years, and have almost always flown into Athens airport.  The only other airports I've flown in to have been Corfu, Zakynthos, Cephalonia, and one on Crete - all many years ago.  I can't be alone in enjoying the parts of Greece to which large scale package tours don't go, and which are best reached by an internal flight from Athens, or far more often by ferry from Piraeus.

Greece names Guggenheim to advise on $26 bln solar project

http://www.ekathimerini.com/4dcgi/_w_articles_wsite2_1_05/03/2012_431206

This year for the first time I noticed some very small "fields" of solar panels on Naxos. Solar panels are more obvious on the roofs of houses in England than they are in Greece.  And I've seen more wind turbines in England than I have in Greece.  Making the best use of solar and wind power must be good for Greece.

Greek bankruptcy would cost 1 trillion euros

Eating Greek in China

http://www.chinadaily.com.cn/sunday/2012-03/04/content_14748677.htm

A few years ago I met an English couple on a small Greek island.  They were travelling the world in a small boat, and had a hankering for Thai food.  Today on that small Greek island one of the tavernas has a weekly Thai evening!

Top 10 Strange Greek Foods You May Like (or Not)

http://greece.greekreporter.com/2012/03/05/top-10-strange-greek-foods-you-may-like-or-not/




Snails

I have eaten snails in France, and seen them being collected in Turkey, but I've never eaten them in Greece.  Most Greek menus include an English translation.  If they don't, I tend to stick to foods that I know the greek word for.  Which is why I may not have tried some of the more "unusual" foods.

Patsas - Tripe soup

I have seen patsas on menus.  At first I thought that "patsas" was a mis-spelling of "pasta"!

Lamb’s head

At a small village on the south coast of Crete I remember seeing what I took to be chickens roasting on a spit - not the open air type of spit that you see lamb being roast on at Easter, but a chrome coloured spit with about half a dozen spits.  I wonderd if you had to order a whole chicken, or whether I could just order a portion of chicken.  All of the chickens were intact, no portions had been torn away.  Looking more closely, I saw that these were not chickens - they were lamb's heads.  Needless to say, I did not order a lamb's head either.  I'm sure I ate elswhere, as I would not have wanted to see someone at the next table tucking into a lamb's head!

A meal in an Albanian hotel also comes to mind.  The English group I was with was ushered past a group of Albanians to an area of the restaurant behind a screen.  Our Albanian fellow-diners were eating lamb's heads!

Kokoretsi - roast offal wrapped in intestines ..................

Kokorestsi looks like a long meaty plait.  I have seen kokoresti being roast on a spit at Easter - I have never eaten kokoresti, but when roast looks quite appetising, like roast liver but with other "bits" included.  Stewed kokoretsi looks less appetising.  I remember looking at trays of cooked food in a Greek taverna, and the waiter was explaining what each was.  When he came to the kokoretsi stew, he could think of no English word and saod "that - thatbis not vegetarian!"

Splinantero - spleen sausage
Not something that I have knowingly tried.  I say "knowingly", as I have eaten Greek sausage, and do not know the contents!  The sausage I buy in Greece is loukanika horiatika (country sausage).  I have been looking at the small print on the pack through a magnifying glass - not sure if that was a good idea!  90% χοιρινό (pork) βοδινό  (beef]0 - oddly, the percentage of each ingredient is not mentioned.  neither is the part of the animal used. The Greek for "spleen" is σπλήνα, which is not mentioned on the label, but as the parts of the animal used are not mentioned ........................  I am thinking of Charkles Dickens' referenceto the parts of the pig of which the pig was least proud.  And I'm also thinking of the meatballs I ate the other evening, and what meat they contained ..............

Sea urchin salad

I saw sea urchin salad on a menu on Amorgos last summer, but was not tempted to try it.  this may sound daft, but I imagined the salad as full of prickles!
Fried octopus ink sack

Not something I have (knowingly) eaten.

Gavros Marinatos - spiced marinated small fish

I have eaten small fish of various sorts as one of the "nibbles" or meze served with a drink. I have seen tubs of marinated, or salted, fish in groceries, and seen locals eating them, seemingly with relish.  I have also seen fish hanging on hooks around a tub on a fishing boat - I'll add the photo when I find it.

Karidaki - cooked whole walnut.  Is it really dipped in asbestos paint??

I have seen jars of pickled walnut, but I think in England, not Greece. 


Kaltsounia - pastry stuffed with Mizithra cheese, honey and cinnamon.  I don't recall seeing this, but it doesn't sound that unusual to me!  Mizithra cheese is very pleasant, like a thicker and drier version of strained Greek yogurt.

Cow-lung soup
I haven't seen cow-lung soup, but have eaten magiritsa, Greek Easter soup, which is not mentioned in the article. Magiritsa is made of lamb offal, and is traditionally served after the midnight church service on Easter Saturday. If you are in Greece at Easter (the Orthodox Easter) check if any tavernas are open after the service to serve this soup. The soup tastes pleasant enough, I just prefer not to think of what it contains - not just lungs, but heart and all sorts of "tubes". The soup looks better if the meat is chopped up very finely, and therefore less distinguishable as of recognisably animal origin. The soup is a lemonish colour, and contains herbs and some rice.

The main parts of the lamb will be roast for lunch on Easter Sunday. I have eaten Easter lamb served with a rice stuffing - and the rice may be mixed with parts of the solids from the magiritsa soup.

Sea squirt
Not something that I have seen or eaten.

Goat

I would rather not eat goat - but I am sure I have. I suspect that goat tastes a little like lamb, and goast may sometimes be referred to on Greek menus as goat. I have seen "domestic meat" on a Greek menu, and "elderly lamb"!

Kalo orexi!

Troika Says Greece Will Need Third Bailout by 2015

Forbes Magazine Ranks Greece Among Most Scenic Places In The World

Greece's fate in balance as banks mull rescue plan

Saturday 3 March 2012

Why you should visit Greece, now more than ever

http://www.petersommer.com/blog/news/visit-greece/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=visit-greece

the fact that the country’s economic crisis may deter visitors is downright tragic, as their business is needed and heartily welcome, and as the on-going problems are not likely to substantially affect most visitors’ experience
Read the article and book your trip to Greece!