Monday 23 December 2013

Are Worry Beads a Part of Greek Tradition? | Greece.GreekReporter.com Latest News from Greece

Greek cats

A piece I wrote a few years ago about Greek cats - there seem to be even more animal lovers in Greece today!
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You can't get away from cats in Greece. They are everywhere. Leave the door of your room open, and you will probably have an uninvited feline visitor. Gangs of cats prowl around every taverna. They skulk around the harbour waiting for a fisherman to throw a fish or two their way. Many cats are sleek and look well nourished, sporting the latest in cat fashions around their necks. Photogenic cats grin at you from postcards and calendars. Yes, the Greeks have cottoned on to the money-spinning potential of cats.

It was not always thus. I first went to Greece about fifteen years ago. In those days I remember that apart from the few obvious pets, cats were skinny and malnourished. Their noses looked adenoidal. The toms and many of the females showed battle scars: flattened noses and cauliflower ears.

The Greeks have never been particularly good at rubbish disposal. Today rubbish in the islands is collected and dumped on a tip at the edge of town. Invariably the wind gets up and blows the rubbish about. Fifteen years ago the collection system was even less refined. Black bin-liners of rubbish were on most streets. It does not take long for a cat to claw its way into a rubbish bag. Many of these bags were split open. Cats ravaged the contents.

Even fifteen years ago some Greeks loved their cats. On my first trip to Amorgos a young Greek lady was taking her cat to the island in a cat basket. She was on the boat the next time I did the trip - with her cat. More and more Greeks are taking care of their cats. On one island I was sitting at the taverna eating my fish supper. Winter had not fully gone and the taverna had not gone into outdoor mode. The insides are not exactly cat free zones, but there are fewer cats inside. A Greek man, one of the regulars, came up to me with a piece of newspaper and said "Miaouw." His English was as fluent as my Greek. I soon cottoned on to the fact that he wanted my fish bones and heads for his cats. I willingly donated them

.

Sit at an outside table in a taverna, and soon there would be a paw, claws outstretched, scratching at your leg. These cats did not take 'no' for an answer. Some taverna owners tried (and still do) to keep cats out of doors. At one taverna the owner was notorious for not liking cats. Every so often she stamped her broom loudly on the floor. Every cat in the building fled. Even customers eating out of doors have been told off for feeding cats, although I have not seen her threaten a customer with a broom - yet. In Greece, the customer is not always right. The owner bustled out of the taverna door preceded by a flock of fleeing cats. The mere sight of her broom was enough to make the cats realise that

they were being swept out.

One year an outdoor taverna even had a cat waitress! I was given an empty plate to put my fish bones on and several times during my meal the waitress emptied it under a nearby tree. The cats knew this routine and were stalking in wait. Greek food is usually good, if you chose the right places to eat. One night the swordfish kebab tasted distinctly off. I threw it outside to the cats. The cats did not touch it. Sensible cats.

Sitting outdoors at breakfast one day recently I felt a thump on my knee. Completely uninvited a ginger cat had landed on my knee. Once arrived, I made her welcome - but never recalled having seen the cat before! One year a café owner had a small white kitten, a delicious bundle of fluff with brilliant blue eyes. The bundle of white fur was passed on from customer to customer as they left so that the kitten always had a lap to sit on. Spoilt rotten that kitten was.

Whenever I see a cat I stroke it. Some cats just run away. On one occasion I knelt down to pat a cat, which promptly put its paws around my neck and almost pulled me over. A very enthusiastic cat, that one. He must have had a good home. On the small island of Schinousa my landlady had a cat with a beautiful, gentle-natured temperament. The thuggish looking, battered old tom was her pride and joy. He was a really delightful cat and never scratched me once all the time we played together on the terrace.

Admittedly there are still some stray cats in Greece, but far less than there were a few years ago. The Greeks have realised that cats are not a nuisance but a tourist attraction.

BBC News - Glimmers of hope for Greek future

BBC News - Glimmers of hope for Greek future

Friday 29 November 2013

“Birds and aircraft in parallel flights” - Hellenic Ornithological Society - exhibition at Athens Airport

“Birds and aircraft in parallel flights” - Hellenic Ornithological Society

An excellent exhibition at Athens airport, on the second floor on the way to the olive Tree and McDonalds.

"The Athens International Airport and the Hellenic Ornithological society welcome the public to a new photo exhibition of environmental and artistic awareness, titled “Birds and aircraft in parallel flights” from the 6th of September till the 31st of December.
 
Through 30 snapshots of birds and aircraft captured by Greek and foreign photographers, and accompanying printed and audiovisual material, visitors will have the opportunity to come closer to the world of birds of the Greek nature, focusing on their similarities in shape and motion with different types of modern aircraft."

Sunday 17 November 2013

Homer's Odyssey - eating tzatziki


I've been reading the Puffin Classics edition of Homer's Odyssey, retold by Geraldine McCaughrean.  I was intrigued to read:
"She gave him fresh warm bread and bowls of tzatziki, with whey to drink, and peeled fruit, and parsley in soft cheese.  At least, it looked rather like parsley, that sprikling of green."

And


 "The meal she laid before him - tzatziki and olives, peeled fruit and cheeses, wine, honey and fresh warm bread ....................."

 Homer was probably born about 725 B.C.  Eating tzatziki?

I've looked in Samuel Butler's translation of 1900 and haven't yet found the passages mentioning anything like tzatziki.......................

 

Thursday 7 November 2013

Some of my recent photos of cats on the Greek island of Amorgos

I often go to the Greek island of Amorgos.  Here are some of my latest cat photos. 

Three staring kittens




Posing prettily!















 

Wednesday 6 November 2013

BBC News - General strike against cuts brings Greece to a halt

BBC News - General strike against cuts brings Greece to a halt

Is Acropolis Museum Losing the Numbers Game? | Greece.GreekReporter.com Latest News from Greece

Is Acropolis Museum Losing the Numbers Game? | Greece.GreekReporter.com Latest News from Greece

"Unfortunately, however, it has become painfully clear that the Museum has failed to attract anywhere near the numbers of visitors that were confidently predicted in the run-up to its inauguration."

The new Acropolis Museum is an excellent museum, I enjoy going there, and I wish it well.   But I'd say that the problem is one of access.   The old museum was on the Acropolis and next to the Parthenon.  You could go to the Acropolis and the old museum in one visit.  I have never been from the Parthenon to the new Acropolis Museum, but I have recently been to Anafiotiki on the lower slopes of the Acropolis and don't remember seeing signs showing the way to the new Acropolis Mueum.  I've been to the new Acropolis Museum several times, and reach it by walking from Plaka.    There is a metro station near the new Acropolis Museum, but that's no use to you if you are on the Acropolis.  There are interesting things to see walking from the Acropolis to the new Acropolis Museum (e.g. the University Museum and Anafiotiki) but you don't want to arrive at the new acropolis Museum so foot-weary that you can't enjoy the museum. 

So for many visitors the choice may be either  / or.  Either go to the acroplis or to the new Acropolis Museum.  I bet most people, if on a first time visit, would choose the Acropolis.

Saturday 2 November 2013

Works of Art in the National Garden | Greece.GreekReporter.com Latest News from Greece

Works of Art in the National Garden | Greece.GreekReporter.com Latest News from Greece

The National Garden is one of my favourite places in Athens.  I usually stay in the Plaka, and like to meander through the National Garden on my way to the Benaki Museum or the Cycladic Museum.  As well as the plants, there is a lake and a small zoo.

Friday 25 October 2013

Typical Amorgian Food


Monastery Agios Georgos Valsamitis dedicated to St George

Monastery Agios Georgos Valsamitis dedicated to St George

The other monastery on Amorgos!  A steep but do-able walk up from Katapola.  But easier to get transport to the monastery the first time you go as it is easier to find katapola when you are walking down than it is to find the monastery when you are walking up!

ekathimerini.com | Words are a dangerous thing

ekathimerini.com | Words are a dangerous thing

Greek Artisans: A philosophy lecturer and a historian produce olive oil and desserts

Are You a "Real Greek?"

Thursday 3 October 2013

"The Amorgos Conspiracy" by Elias Kulukundis

The Hellenic Centre London | Venue Hire & Greek Cultural Centre - Books in English

"The Amorgos Conspiracy


The 'Amorgos Conspiracy' is the true story of the escape of a political prisoner from the colonels’ dictatorship in late 1960s Greece. A center-left politician George Mylonas was held in detention on the remote Aegean island of Amorgos, and a plot to rescue him was conceived by his son-in-law, Elias Kulukundis, a young Greek-American writer who is the author of the book.

The drama unfolds against
an idyllic setting of a cruise among the Aegean islands during a heroic period in Greek history, when all Europe was humming the Theodorakis anthem heard in the film score of Costa Gavras's “Z”, and ordinary Europeans volunteered their services to aid the cause of Greek liberty.

Elias Kulukundis did not research his subject in an archive, but discovered it by living it. This is a story of coming of age, of young people attempting to strike out on their own, against the generation that preceded them, only to encounter the inevitable reversals of life."

Tuesday 1 October 2013

ekathimerini.com | Life in the drawing rooms of the 19th century

ekathimerini.com | Life in the drawing rooms of the 19th century

"“Rituals of Hospitality: Ornamented Trays of the 19th Century in Greece and Turkey,” which runs through November 17, is curated by Flavia Nessi-Yazitzoglou and Myrto Hatzaki, and consists of 110 trays, among other display items."  The exhobition is at the benaki Museum in Athens.

Sunday 1 September 2013

Friday 16 August 2013

BBC News - How to play with an intelligent octopus

BBC News - How to play with an intelligent octopus

Will I ever eat grilled octopus again?

More about intelligent octopus
http://www.orionmagazine.org/index.php/articles/article/6474

Wednesday 31 July 2013

Ban Placed On Crete’s Wild Herbs | Greece.GreekReporter.com Latest News from Greece

Ban Placed On Crete’s Wild Herbs | Greece.GreekReporter.com Latest News from Greece

"The ban’s aim was to protect protect the near-extinct species of sage, marjoram, oregano and sideritis which is better known as Cretan mountain tea.

As AMNA reported, the forestry department of Chania, one of the island’s main towns, had forbidden the eradication, cutting, gathering and transporting of a variety of wild herbs in protected areas of the island until the end of 2018."
I wonder how many similar bans are in force that could trap the unwary tourist?  Are herbs that are sold in Greece herbs that have been picked in the wild, or cultivated?  And herbs in Greece are not just for consumption - I have seen herbs spread on the ground at Easter, giving off a wonderful scent when people taking part in processions walk over them.

Wednesday 17 July 2013

Corfu’s Achilleion Palace To Be Restored | Greece.GreekReporter.com Latest News from Greece

Corfu’s Achilleion Palace To Be Restored | Greece.GreekReporter.com Latest News from Greece

Mykonos Drowning in Tourists – and Garbage! | Greece.GreekReporter.com Latest News from Greece

Mykonos Drowning in Tourists – and Garbage! | Greece.GreekReporter.com Latest News from Greece

I have not noticed rubbish problems in the islands I visit.  mykonos is probably unique - the small size of the island, the huge numbers of visitors, the wealth of the visitors, and the renewal of household items.  Not mentioned in the article is the rubbish from cruise ships  - I have seen rubbish from small cruise ships being left on a very small island (not left, but "officially" taken away by a municpal rubbish vehicle that boarded the cruise ship.  Do big cruise ships take there rubbish away, or leave it at their ports of call?

Saturday 13 July 2013

Monday 24 June 2013

Matala Beach Festival Remembers Hippies | Greece.GreekReporter.com Latest News from Greece

Matala Beach Festival Remembers Hippies | Greece.GreekReporter.com Latest News from Greece

I went to Matala in the 1980s.  No hippies that I remember.

Tourists Prefer Traditional Greek Products | Greece.GreekReporter.com Latest News from Greece

Tourists Prefer Traditional Greek Products | Greece.GreekReporter.com Latest News from Greece

When looking for a "product" to take home, factors I look at include the size and fragility of the "product".  Some of the "products" I have seen in gift shops in Greece are made of glass or pottery and are large.  Not easy for someone with a car to take home safely , but nigh on impossible for someone travelling independently with a small wheeled case, and a combination of ferries, buses, planes and trains to catch!

Saturday 22 June 2013

Are you looking for a nice place to stay in Katapola (Amorgos)?

I've been visiting Katapola for over 20 years, and always stay at Dimitri's P(a)lace, which is on the lane leading to Minoa, but very close to the centre of Katapola. The rooms are a short walk from the sea, shops and tavernas, yet in the countryside.
At Dimitri's P(a)lace you'll find:
  • comfortable rooms, with your own or shared kitchen areas
  • a lovely garden setting, with olive trees, grape vines, lemon trees and many more plants.
 
Ring Dimitri for more information (0030 22850 71309)

This photo shows the position of Dimitri's in red.  You walk round the bay from the harbour towards the large church with three blue domes (one large, two small) in the centre of the bay.  Take the stone paved road that leads from the road around the bay towards the church.  Walk past the school.  You reach a small (but very well-stocked!) grocery shop.  Here a path straight ahead leads to the church.  To reach Dimitri's take the road on the right.


After walking for about one minute, you will see the gateway leading to Dimitri's P(a)lace.




The photos below show the gardens, and views from the garden and rooms.











































































Greek Cherries Extremely Good this Year | Greece.GreekReporter.com Latest News from Greece

Greek Cherries Extremely Good this Year | Greece.GreekReporter.com Latest News from Greece

I haven't eaten fresh cherries in Greece recently, but this year I have eaten delicious yogurt and cherry icecream at Waffle House in Naxos and Cassiopi in Amorgos Chora.

Thursday 20 June 2013

BBC News - The Greeks who worship the ancient gods

BBC News - The Greeks who worship the ancient gods

Lock up your biros!

BBC News - Ryanair and Easyjet: The history of the peanut airlines

"At Ryanair, cost-cutting culture has been taken to an extreme that Southwest never practiced. O'Leary says he bans the buying of biros for the office at Ryanair. "Hotels are great companies that offer free biros," says O'Leary, "so I regularly purloin my biros and pens... and I'm happy to supply hotel pens whenever I can."

Customer service director Caroline Green says this isn't just another piece of O'Leary spin designed to get a bit of free publicity. "That one is true. Wherever we go, every piece of stationery is taken from the meeting room. It's just a corporate culture now." "

Ryanair has started running internal flights in Greece........................

ekathimerini.com | Revisiting a bygone era through the photographs of Constantine Manos

ekathimerini.com | Revisiting a bygone era through the photographs of Constantine Manos

This makes me want to visit the Benaki before 25 August!  I was in Athens last week, but the Benaki was closed when I was there on Tuesday.

ekathimerini.com | Greeks: second happiest people in Europe, despite crisis, says study

ekathimerini.com | Greeks: second happiest people in Europe, despite crisis, says study

Saturday 15 June 2013

Greek breakfast

http://greece.greekreporter.com/2013/06/14/greek-breakfast-brings-millions-to-greek-hotels/

The "Greek Breakfast" is a good initiative, as in the past I have found Greek hotel breakfasts a little dull and unappetising. 


Friday 14 June 2013

We want our rights back!

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AMAZON! We (the cats of Naxos) want our rights back!  FREE SHIPPING FOR GREEK CHARITIES

Thursday 13 June 2013

Watch out, there's a thief about - even at the breakfast table!

Some hotels in Athens serve breakfast on the roof.  Here is a sparrow "stealing" cake from my breakfast table!

The "someone behind"

Reading about laterna (traditional instrument) players being required to give receipts for donations reminded me of a niggling concern.

In Athens especially, but also on islands, sellers walk amongst diners in tavernas selling things (e.g. roses, paper tissues), or playing a few notes on an instrument.  Sometimes the sellers are young children; sometimes disabled people.  My concern is not with the sellers themselves, but how they are organised andn are they being exploited.  The children sellings flowers or whatever will have someone behind them supplying the goods,  And it is that "someone behind" that concerns me.  It is the "someone behind" who needs to be regulated and taxed.

In Athens I had eaten a meal at a taverna, and a tout had walked round selling something - this was a month or so ago and I forget what was being sold.  After the meal I bought an icecream and sat in a small park to eat the ice cream.  The park was surrounded by tavernas and felt perfectly safe.  A woman was sitting at a nearby seat, and I noticed the young tout approach her.  I did not hear what was said, but from the general demeanour of the two, it seemed that the tout was not trying to sell something, but was getting instructions from her "minder", the "someone behind".

Greece Will Tax Laterna Players | Greece.GreekReporter.com Latest News from Greece

Greece Will Tax Laterna Players | Greece.GreekReporter.com Latest News from Greece

"As politischios.gr reports, a player, Michalis Skrivanos, who also goes under the nickname Diopas, was forced to put a cash register on his laterna, instead of being given a grant for keeping alive such a long tradition."


Saturday 8 June 2013

Rocco - the blind kitten from the Greek island of Naxos. See his Facebook page!

NYTimes covers Greek museum's financial woes|Culture|2013-05-17 - pappaspost.com

NYTimes covers Greek museum's financial woes|Culture|2013-05-17 - pappaspost.com

This headline is an example of how the meaning of Uk English and US English differs.  I read the headline as meaning that the New York Times was subsidising the Benaki Museum.  But "covers" only means that the New York Times has an article about the financial woes of the Benaki.

From Oxfordshire to the Greek islands: a new coming of age film inspired by Homer|Culture|2013-06-04 - pappaspost.com

From Oxfordshire to the Greek islands: a new coming of age film inspired by Homer|Culture|2013-06-04 - pappaspost.com

‘The real deal in a world of Greek-style pretenders’|Culture|2013-06-07 - pappaspost.com

Yotam Ottolenghi's recipes for aubergine kadaifi nest, plus goat's yoghurt-marinated lamb chops | Life and style | The Guardian

Yotam Ottolenghi's recipes for aubergine kadaifi nest, plus goat's yoghurt-marinated lamb chops | Life and style | The Guardian

Friday 7 June 2013

Bus Drivers to Sell Tickets to Deter Fare-Dodging | Greece.GreekReporter.com Latest News from Greece

Bus Drivers to Sell Tickets to Deter Fare-Dodging | Greece.GreekReporter.com Latest News from Greece

ekathimerini.com | Greece is cheapest destination in European south

ekathimerini.com | Greece is cheapest destination in European south

"Greece has emerged as the cheapest holiday destination in the European south this month as far as accommodation is concerned, .........................."

Special Report: The island fighting for a new Greece | Reuters

Special Report: The island fighting for a new Greece | Reuters

Down and out in Athens: Putting faces on Greece's economic crisis - PhotoBlog

Down and out in Athens: Putting faces on Greece's economic crisis - PhotoBlog

Athens: best street foods and stalls | Travel | guardian.co.uk

Athens: best street foods and stalls | Travel | guardian.co.uk

Interesting.  I haven't eaten a koulouri in years.  I'm usually on board a ferry when I see a koulouri seller near the ferry ramp.  And then wish that i had bought one!

Greek hot dogs I don't fancy.  This piece makes too much of street foods.  For hot food, I'd rather buy a takeaway from a "fixed" seller, a taverna selling takeaways.  I would opt for a giro, far nicer to my taste than a hot dog.  A giro is pieces of grilled pork, freshly carved off the upright grill, and served in a hot pita bread with tomato, onion, tsatsiki and chips, and sprinkled with red pepper. Mmmmmmmmmmmmmm!  I could eat one now!

The Effect of Istanbul Uprising on Greek Tourism | Greece.GreekReporter.com Latest News from Greece

The Effect of Istanbul Uprising on Greek Tourism | Greece.GreekReporter.com Latest News from Greece

Benaki’s 100 Chairs in 100 Days | Greece.GreekReporter.com Latest News from Greece

Tuesday 4 June 2013

5 Greek islands you haven’t heard of – but need to see - The Globe and Mail

5 Greek islands you haven’t heard of – but need to see - The Globe and Mail

The five islands are Folegandros, Patmos, Anafi, Samos and Samothraki.

I've been to four - I haven't been to Samothrace.  To me Folegandros, Patmos, Samos and Samothraki are fairly mainstream islands, and I'd have throught that many people would have heard of them.  Anafi is more obscure - but reasonably accessible to anyone on Santorini.

Some photos of Amorgos Chora - May and June 2013


More photos to follow!  I'm busy taking more photos.........................



A traditional form of transport in Amorgos Chora


Amorgos Chora on a misty day, seen from the windmill ridge


Some of the windmills above Amorgos Chora



The carvings outside the school in Chora.  The school was founded in 1821.


The church of Fotodotis Christos, near the school in Chora.  The sun was behind the belfry, giving an almost mysterious glow.

Monday 3 June 2013

ekathimerini.com | Transforming Athens, starting by the sea

ekathimerini.com | Transforming Athens, starting by the sea

ekathimerini.com | No magic solutions

ekathimerini.com | No magic solutions

Turkish Warships Pass Greek Islands | Greece.GreekReporter.com Latest News from Greece

Turkish Warships Pass Greek Islands | Greece.GreekReporter.com Latest News from Greece

Last week there was a Greek naval boat with prominent missiles moored in Katapola on Amorgos for several days. She would have arrived after the first incident and left a couple of days ago before the incident near Amorgos mentioned in this article.

Korres Grows In International Markets | Greece.GreekReporter.com Latest News from Greece

Korres Grows In International Markets | Greece.GreekReporter.com Latest News from Greece

One of the first things I do when I arrive on the Greek island of Naxos is buy some Korres showergel and shampoo, often on the walk from the harbour to my hotel if the pharmacy is open.

My favourite showergel is Citrus.  I was running out, so I bought some Korres shampoo today on Amorgos.  There was no citrus, so my next shower will be vanilla, freesia and lychee flavoured!

I am currently using the shampoo flavoured with aloe and dittany.

Saturday 1 June 2013